How to Visit a Buffalo Mozzarella Farm in Italy

Paestum is THE place to find farms that specialize in water buffalo, and the mozzarella that comes from them. Paestum is to mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella) what Naples is to Pizza. This is where you find mozzarella in its most authentic and most delicious form.

Sorrento is a great home-base to travel around the Amalfi Coast and even to Pompeii and Naples. If you are staying in Sorrento, consider this side-trip to Paestum. Although Paestum is a bit out of the way, it is worth visiting to see the temples and eat mozzarella from the source.

Greek Temples in Paestum

We originally planned to travel to Paestum to see the Greek temples. I had learned about the temples in college where I studied Architecture. For one of my classes, I used a picture from a textbook to draw a pen & ink drawing of the Temple of Hera II, located in Paestum. Since we were already in Sorrento and visiting the Amalfi Coast, I desperately wanted to travel farther south to see in person the building that I had created in my drawing. In researching where the temple was located, I realized that Paestum is also the home to buffalo mozzarella or Mozzarella di Bufala. How perfect!

Buffalo Farm in Paestum

After visiting the temples and the small town, we asked our driver if he could take us to a mozzarella farm. He drove us to Barlotti Caseifecio, and as soon as we parked, we saw the buffalo. I didn’t realize we would be able to see the magnificent animals so closely.

These are not the “Home on the Range” type of buffalo found in America, nor are they the often-confused Cape Buffalo from Africa. These are Italian Mediterranean Buffalo.

Best Lunch of the Trip

After admiring the buffalo, we headed inside for lunch. Our driver, Nunzio, asked us a question and what I thought he said was “Do you want to see a menu?” But, I misunderstood, and what he said was “Do you want to try everything on the menu?” Plate after delicious plate of food was brought to our table. We were a little concerned about what the price might be, but it turned out to be a very inexpensive meal. It was a wonderful misunderstanding.

Everything was made with food from their farm. We ate sauteed broccoli leaves (maybe broccoli rabe), escarole, and zucchini from their garden. The waitress brought us another plate with the best bruschetta I’ve ever eaten. Next, a plate of salami made with buffalo meat. The salami had pork fat added because the buffalo meat is very lean. The waitress brought many different kinds of cheese to our table including ricotta, affumicato mozzarella (smoked mozzarella), and of course the highlight of the day: buffalo mozzarella. This was an unparalleled meal and we would love to experience it again.

Buffalo Mozzarella (Mozzarella di Bufala)

Fresh mozzarella di bufala is a phenomenon of Italian cuisine. Purists say that true mozzarella only comes from the milk of buffalo and cow-milk mozzarella is fior di latte mozzarella. The cheese is completely different than the type we have here in the US. In Italy, buffalo mozzarella has a very thin skin, a delicate flavor, and a soft center. When you cut into the porcelain-white mozzarella, the whey weeps out onto the plate.

Look for packages of mozzarella with a logo and the wording “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana.” This means that the mozzarella has been made by a caseificio (cheese-maker) that is part of the DOP. In order to qualify for this prestigious recognition, the producer must follow strict rules. The caseificio must be located in a certain geographic area and follow a traditional recipe. According to the DOP, mozzarella is best enjoyed the same day it is made.

How To Travel to Paestum

Although Paestum is not easy to get to from Sorrento, we found a solution. We hired a driver to take us part of the way on our long-way-around route to Rome. Sorrento to Paestum is about a 1 1/2 hour to 2 hour drive when you drive along the coast. Our driver, Nunzio Cesarano, took us from Sorrento to Paestum. Although part of the coastline road was closed due to a rockslide, we saw a lot of amazing views on the roadtrip.

Nunzio took us along the Amalfi Coast, then to Paestum, then to the Salerno train station where we caught a fast train to Rome.

How We Found Our Driver

Once we reserved our apartment in Sorrento, we asked our Airbnb hosts, Vittorio and Elena, if they knew of a driver to take us along the Amalfi Coast. They suggested Nunzio Cesarano, so we hired him to take us along the Amalfi Coast, and through the countryside of Campania to the town of Paestum. Nunzio is a very nice man with an unparalleled ability of driving along the treacherous roads that cling to the cliffside. It was a pleasant drive and Nunzio stopped at the perfect spot for a photo op with the town of Amalfi in the background.

If you’d like to hire Nunzio (and we recommend that you do), check out his website and his TripAdvisor page.

Need a place to stay in Sorrento?

We HIGHLY recommend staying at the apartment where we stayed. The apartment is clean and beautiful, the views of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples are phenomenal. The apartment is in a great location away from the touristy part of Sorrento. Yet, it is close to shopping and restaurants. Most importantly, the host is exceptionally nice and helpful.

If you sign up for your first Airbnb stay with this link you’ll receive $40 off your first rental!

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