Your Complete Guide to Sorrento

In this Guide to Sorrento, you’ll learn the best things to do, where to eat, where to stay, the best places to go for side-trips, and the best (and safest) way to get to Sorrento.

For an Italophile like me, it is difficult to choose a favorite Italian location–in fact, over the years my favorite city has changed. On my first trip to Italy, Rome took my breath away–the ancient ruins, the art, the people, and of course the food. Years later, Florence became my favorite. Brunelleschi’s dome could have alone accounted for my love of the city. When you add in the easily walkable historic center where Michaelangelo, da Vinci, and the Medicis once walked; the best cappuccino at Chiaroscuro; the Uffizzi and L’Academia and the art masterpieces they hold; it’s easy to understand how Florence could be my favorite city.

But then, I visited Sorrento. It didn’t take long for this to become my favorite place in Italy. I fell in love with the palm tree and lemon tree-lined streets, the buildings hanging on the cliff overlooking the Gulf of Naples with Mt. Vesuvius in the distance, the food, and the people. When I think of returning again to Sorrento, there is a physical pull in my belly that is undeniable. Josh and I dream of one day moving to Sorrento, but until then we’ll settle for as many vacations as possible to this cliff-perched town on the sea.

Things to Do

Walk around and get a feel for the way Italians live

One of the draws of Sorrento is the small-town feel. Sure Sorrento has its share of tourists (it is a cruise ship port, after all), but when you venture away from the tourist areas, you feel the real Sorrento. You find a bakery here, a meat shop there, a bar for your morning cappuccino and afternoon espresso here and there. Sorrento is like most other Italian towns in that it has small shops specializing in different foods instead of a huge grocery store that holds it all. It’s fun to walk around to the separate shops and buy the makings of dinner.

Take the train tour to see the town’s highlights

This inexpensive tour starts at Piazza Tasso, leads you to the insta-worthy panoramic terraces for a sweeping view of the Gulf of Naples overlooking the Grand Marina. Next, you head down the steep road and hairpin turn to the marina. Then, back up to the Piazza and around the alleys alongside the artisan shops. Headphones relay a pre-recorded message giving you a brief description and history of the town, but the real draw is the scenery.

Walk down the pedestrian-only San Cesareo in the Old Town

This store-lined lane is the perfect place to pick out your souvenirs. You’ll find plenty of stores selling limoncello and limoncello-flavored foods, ceramics painted with lemons, paintings (and sometimes the painter), hand-made leather items, and food stalls. If you are traveling in the late fall or winter, you’ll find someone selling roasted chestnuts. Don’t miss the side streets where you’ll find more stores and restaurants.

Visit the lemon grove and limoncello factory

Located in the middle of Sorrento is a park-like lemon grove with winding paths through the lemon trees. As you walk under pergolas, lemon trees surround you. Lemons have grown in this area since Roman times and the lemons found in this garden are typical of the Sorrentine Penninsula. If you visit in the late fall or winter, you’re sure to see lemons on the trees. The path ends at a stand that sells limoncello and offers free tasting. I Giardini di Cataldo maintains the garden, the stand, and offers factory tours at the store nearby.

Walk down to the Grand Marina

The Grand Marina is where you will catch a hydrofoil to Naples or Capri. As you walk down the steep steps, look up at the buildings clinging to the rock wall above you. When you reach the marina, the view looking up to Sorrento is stunning. Above the bay you see the characteristic pine trees jutting above the buildings.

Where to Eat

The typical food of Sorrento includes many seafood dishes, plenty of fresh vegetables and lemons. You will also find light pasta dishes and Neapolitan style pizza (it’s no wonder with it being just across the bay from Naples). Restaurants are along most streets in Sorrento, and there are many that we have not yet tried. Below is a list of some of our favorites that we have enjoyed.

Pizzeria da Franco

This is the pizza by which we rate all other pizzas. Order the Margherita with (fresh!) mozzarella di bufalo from nearby Paestum. And while you’re at it, order the prosciutto and mozzarella appetizer.  AH-may-zing! Check out the prosciutto hanging from the ceiling. The small eatery holds a surprising number of people, and they serve you very quickly. At night, there is a crowd of (local) people standing outside waiting to be seated, so you know it’s good.

Leone Rosso

This restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating specialized in a menu based on local Campania ingredients. The chef here creates a menu based on the availability of products according to the season. You can choose from a variety of different seafood and pasta dishes.

Gelateria David

When we are in Italy, there are two things we do daily: drink cappuccino and eat gelato. Here is one of our favorite gelato spots in Sorrento. Conveniently located right next door to Leone Rosso, so dinner and dessert are taken care of.

Bar Cioko Chris

For morning cappuccino and afternoon espresso, this is the place to go. This is a typical Italian bar. Locals walk up to the bar (after paying at the register) and stand at the bar talking with neighbors as they drink their cappuccino or caffé vesuvio. Tables are also available to sit at while enjoying your cappuccino e cornetto.

Side Trips from Sorrento

One of the many great things about Sorrento is its location and the easy day trips you can make using Sorrento as a base. Here are some of our favorites.

Tour an Olive Oil Mill and Garden

A short taxi ride away from the center of Sorrento is Frantoio Gargiulo (Gargiulo oil mill). They offer free tours and tastings. When you reserve on their website, they will arrange for transportation to and from your accommodation in Sorrento.  Read more about the olive oil mill here.

Visit Pompeii

The ancient Roman city that was destroyed by Mt. Vesuvius is only a 30-minute train ride along the Circumvesuviana train. Don’t expect to see the entire excavation, because this place is huge. Consider hiring a guide so you can understand the historical significance of what you’re seeing.

Take a drive along the Amalfi Coast

On the scenic road along the Amalfi Coast, you see the side of the cliff rise high above you on one side and plummets into the sea on the other side. The drivers who dare to drive on this road are indeed skilled. Two options for those of us not used to driving in Italy, let alone on this treacherous road, are taking a bus or hiring a driver.

Visit Positano

In Positano, pastel-colored houses stacked one upon the other look as if they are tumbling down into the sea. This engineering feat is best viewed from the black-stoned beach.

Eat Mozzarella di Bufalo in Paestum

About 1 1/2 to 2 hours away from Sorrento is Paestum. This is THE place for mozzarella di buffalo (buffalo mozzarella). Read more about how to visit a buffalo farm here.

Where to Stay

Stay to the East of town to avoid the touristy area. It can get crowded with tourists to the West of Piazza Tasso, but a few blocks for the East it feels like you’re living there. To further this feeling, rent an apartment.

We have twice stayed in Elena’s apartments (in both Splendid A and Splendid B) and HIGHLY recommend her. The apartment is clean and beautiful, and the views of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples are phenomenal. The apartment is in a great location away from the touristy part of Sorrento. Yet, it is close to shopping and restaurants. Most importantly, the host is exceptionally nice and helpful. Elena is an Airbnb Superhost and when you read the glowing reviews about her attention to her guests, you understand why.

If you sign up for your first Airbnb stay with this link you’ll receive $40 off your first rental!

Getting to Sorrento

Flights to Naples and Rome are both good options for a trip to Sorrento. From both of these airports, you could take the train, but I don’t recommend it with luggage. The connecting train from Naples to Sorrento runs on the Circumvesuviano line and is notorious for pickpockets. You will read post after post on the Rick Steves Forum about the Circumvesuviano pickpockets.

If you have luggage with you, don’t take the Circumvesuvian train from Naples to Sorrento. To get around that, if you fly into Rome, take a bus (about 4 hours, 19€) with Marrozi. From the Naples airport, you can hire a driver to take you into Sorrento. We HIGHLY recommend Nunzio, who we’ve hired multiple times. You can see his website here and his Tripadvisor page here.

I hope this travel guide to Sorrento was useful and I wish you a great trip!

Any questions? Have you been to Sorrento?  Did I miss anything? Leave a comment below.

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